The Heart Motif in Jewellery

What is the most recognisable symbol in jewellery history? The heart.

In this Valentine’s special episode of Gem Pursuit, Matthew Weldon and Fenia Sigkoudi explore the enduring story of the heart motif — a symbol that has carried secret messages, sealed romantic promises, and expressed devotion for centuries.

We begin in the ancient world, where the heart was believed to be the centre of the soul, and trace how medieval courtly love helped shape the heart into a romantic emblem. From early love tokens and poetic brooches to protective witch hearts and crowned double hearts, the symbol evolved into a powerful visual language of love, loyalty, and longing.

The episode also explores the Victorian era’s obsession with sentimental heart jewellery, from Queen Victoria’s personal charm bracelets to mourning lockets containing hair and portraits. Moving into the 20th century, we look at wartime sweetheart lockets and Elsa Peretti’s revolutionary Open Heart design, which transformed the motif into a modern design icon.

Finally, we turn to some of history’s most spectacular heart-shaped jewels, including Elizabeth Taylor’s Taj Mahal diamond, the legendary Blue Heart Diamond, and the technically astonishing Graff Venus — alongside iconic heart jewels worn by figures from Wallis Simpson to Lady Gaga.

From intimate love tokens to world-famous gemstones, the heart has remained jewellery’s most timeless symbol — and it’s not going anywhere any time soon.

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This podcast was produced for Courtville by Tape Deck