Dr. Tyler Nelson: How to Test Critical Force and What to Do With the Results

Test YOUR Critical Force, break through plateaus, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional   Join the email list to get a FREE private finger training clinic with Dr. Tyler Nelson(normally $15) www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/strong   Dr. Tyler Nelson returns to dive deep on Critical Force, including: How to test critical force  Why it matters My critical force test Why MVC is still king How critical force tells us what to train  Improving power endurance on and off wall The big change I’m making to my training now What boulderers should focus on kill Why so many pros don’t test finger strength    Dr. Tyler Nelson's Critical Force Field Test is on the Intentional Climber app! Test your CF and get instant training recommendations from Tyler based on the results.   Here are Tyler's other episodes to check out: https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-on-finger-strength/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/expert-analysis-training-with-dr-tyler-nelson/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-power-with-dr-tyler-nelson-free-preview/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-pro-clinic-on-building-endurance-for-bouldering-and-sport-climbing/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/dr-tyler-nelson-stronger-wrists-stronger-climbing/ https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/pro-clinic-dr-tyler-nelson-on-how-to-maintain-and-gain-strength-beyond-age-35-free/ - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program. And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Critical Force Teaser00:22 Show Intro and Focus01:39 Critical Force Explained05:20 Host Updates Australia06:47 Meet Dr Tyler Nelson08:05 Testing Protocol Breakdown11:07 Interpreting Your Numbers15:27 Energy Systems and Plateau18:23 Testing Method Matters23:58 Who Should Use This25:43 Arc'teryx Academy Ad26:59 What Results Mean Training31:42 Route Goal Flower Power33:28 Training Interventions Percentages41:49 No Gear Testing Options43:49 Treadwall for Endurance45:28 How To Train From Metrics47:38 Critical Force Takeaways48:57 Power Endurance Priority50:28 Training Tools Setup52:09 Active Rest Explained53:39 80 vs 60 Percent Blocks56:11 Retesting and Progress57:35 Elite Curve and Technique01:01:47 Why Pros Skip Testing01:04:00 More Quality Attempts01:09:31 Repeater Protocol Details01:11:41 In Season Projecting01:14:52 Peaking for Fall Season01:19:57 Outro and App Protocol01:23:49 My Current Training Plan01:27:25 Final Wrap Up - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow  - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym cl