Neil Gresham: How Busy Climbers Break Through Plateaus (Without Training More)
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Elite climber and coach Neil Gresham explores:
The thing coaches don't talk about
Turning life stress into climbing fuel
How he trained Tim Emmett to send 14d / 9a
The most impactful training modalities
Why it’s good that most of us don’t train like pros
His low inflammation nutritional breakthrough
Technique pitfalls and fixes
Why having kids can level up our climbing
Chris Sharma‘s winning mindset
Work with Neil: https://www.neilgresham.com/
Neil's nutrition guide: https://www.neilgresham.com/nutrition-guide
Neil's technique masterclass: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r&si=Se3MPb8R8gFihL9z
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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com
And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals
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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!
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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)
00:00 Psych High Time Low00:28 Meet Coach Neil04:39 Podcast Format Plan06:19 Struggle Origins10:47 Life Stress And Grief15:34 Ebb Flow Training23:14 Climber Or Coach24:22 Masterclass Legacy27:08 Sponsors And Patreon29:29 Training Strength Battle34:03 Building Strength Plans38:52 Tim Vs Dusty Coaching43:41 Training Load Templates45:07 Stop Copying Elites47:07 Quality Over Quantity47:51 Recovery Days Matter49:20 Collagen Sponsor Break50:40 Nutrition Recovery Reboot52:13 Low Inflammation Shift55:03 Cut Booze Sugar Wheat57:29 Carbs For Sleep Recovery01:00:25 Nutrition Burnout Warning01:05:14 Periodized Eating Cycle01:09:49 Technique Versus Strength01:13:02 Mindful Warmup Drills01:18:48 Repeats Mirror Angle Hacks01:23:36 Outdoor Project Tactics01:25:03 Timing Peak And Conditions01:27:04 Maintenance Training Diagnostics01:28:08 Quality Over Volume Peak01:28:57 Simulate Project Conditions01:29:49 Avoid Project Burnout01:33:32 Kids And Mindset Shift01:34:09 Learn From Chill Crushers01:35:39 Obsession Reset Lessons01:37:11 Want It But Let Go01:39:05 Tim's Meltdown Breakthrough01:42:45 Modeling Calm At Crag01:44:36 Belief Unlocks Grades01:46:47 Conditions Can Lie01:50:05 Coaching Confidence Hack01:57:19 Stop Overthinking Redpoints01:59:10 Work With Neil Gresham02:01:31 Wrap Up And Bonus Plug
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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (an